Bound in Stitches: A Brief Guide to Common Bookbinding Stitches

Bookbinding is the process of attaching individual paper leaves or folded sheets into one secure volume with the purpose of protecting and embellishing handwritten or printed documents. Bookbinding can incorporate many diverse techniques that improve the functionality, durability, and beauty of a book. Hobbyists and crafters often favor sewn binding techniques (also known as Smyth sewn)  for a personal handmade touch when they create scrapbook journals, photo albums, notebooks, and other gifts. Sewn binding is durable, secure, and decorative. This article describes eight sewn-binding stitches and their origins followed by links and references to illustrated tutorials that demonstrate each sewn-binding technique. Each technique has advantages and disadvantages, depending on the purpose and physical characteristics of the book, such as thickness. 

  • Coptic stitch

Also known as chain stitch, Coptic stitch is a bookbinding technique that creates a flexible book: The pages open flat, making it easy to write or draw in the bound book. In this technique, one or more signatures (a compilation of two or more paper sheets folded together) are sewn together with chain-like stitches, which are exposed across the book spine. A variation of the Coptic stitch is the kettle stitch which holds the ends of the book signatures together and keeps them tight and stable.  

Early writing was done on wax tablets, wood, parchment, papyrus, vellum (animal skin) scrolls, and other materials until the Romans invented the binding format called the codex. Making a codex involved stacking individual pages and binding the stack of pages along one edge with wax. The term “codex” refers to this structural format and not to any particular binding technique.

Figure 1. Ancient codices found in Nag Hammadi. Photo from the Biblical Archaeology Society. 

Coptic bindings are named for the Copts, the early Christians of Egypt, who were the first  to produce codices (plural of codex) in large numbers between 200 CE and 1000 CE. The earliest codices discovered were found in 1945 by two peasants near the Egyptian village of Nag Hammadi. These were thirteen papyrus codices of Gnostic texts (scriptures by early Christians) written in Greek and translated into Coptic. Their quires (four folded sheets of parchment or paper) were either fastened together with leather ties or stitched at the spine with a chain stitch and topped by leather covers. Today, Coptic stitch is very popular among book artists and hobbyists who create handmade journals, albums, sketchbooks, and other one-of-a-kind gift books.

Learn more

For instructions on how to bind a book using Coptic stitch, check out How to Do Coptic Stitch by Mollie Johanson.

Figure 2. Coptic stitch sketchbooks. Photo from Paula Tew. 
Figure 3. Kettle stitch diagram. Photo by Natalie Stopka on Pinterest.
  • French stitch

French stitch is a decorative handmade bookbinding technique featuring an exposed spine. It uses an even number of sewing stations, and the stitches form an X pattern. Because the linking stitches by themselves are loose, bookbinders add kettle stitches (see Figure 3) at each end of the spine to secure the text block. 

French bookbinders have produced bindings of exquisite beauty and craftsmanship since the 1500s. Part of their bookbinding process involved decorating the spine and covers of a book. During the seventeenth century, three popular techniques were used to accomplish this: gold tooling (the process of lettering or decorating with gold leaf); fanfare (gold tooling in geometric motifs with leaves, flowers, spirals, and other compartmentalized designs); and pointillé (impressed gold dots in floral, geometric, or lace-like patterns). The designs for these techniques were adopted from embroidery patterns or metalwork from the East. 

The term “French stitch,” also known as the French link stitch, originated in France in the sixteenth century. This bookbinding technique was inspired by embroidery patterns that were popular at the time. The decorative crisscross or X pattern created along the exposed spine resembles traditional French needlework, which influenced both the visual appeal and the name.

Learn more

For a detailed illustrated tutorial on how to tape-bind a book with an exposed French-link stitch, check out The Exposed Tape Binding in 140 (ish) Easy Steps by Molly Brooks.

Figure 4. French link stitch bookbinding. Photo from Based Book Arts.
Figure 5. Fanfare style binding on red goatskin. Digital Bodleian in Wikimedia Commons.
  • Japanese stab binding

Asian countries such as China and Japan have been using the stab binding since some two thousand years ago, when the codex was invented, because of its simplicity, effectiveness, and low cost. Stab binding is similar to the blanket stitch in sewing. This method binds a collection of single sheets (not folded sheets) on soft or hardcovers by stabbing holes on the left side of the sheets. The result is a book that does not open flat. This is the perfect binding method for one-sided drawings or photo albums or books with the contents already written.  

Japanese stab binding is called Yotsume Toji (Four holes), and it was practiced during the Edo period (1603–1867) in Japan. A variant stitch called Koki Toji (Noble binding) uses two extra holes near the corners for extra strength. An additional, more decorative stitch variation is Kikko Toji (Tortoiseshell binding) with no extra stitches near the corners. 

Learn more

For instructions on Japanese stab binding, check out 4-Hole Japanese Bookbinding tutorial by Sea Lemon.

Figure 6. A variety of Japanese stab stitches. Photo from iBookBinding. 
  • Long stitch

The long stitch is a simple and versatile bookbinding technique that involves sewing several signatures directly through the cover with long stitches that are visible on the book spine. This bookbinding technique involves what is called a limp structure; it uses a flexible cover, usually made of vellum, leather, cloth, parchment, or paper. The limp structure allows a book to lay flat when it’s open. It is often used in combination with Coptic-style chain stitches for a more decorative finish. 

The long-stitch or tacketed binding had been used in the Middle Ages in Europe. For example, Italy used it for printed books and stationery; Germany for textbooks at schools and universities; and the Low Countries (modern-day Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg) favored it for binding almanacs. Today, the long stitch is popular among contemporary binders and book artists that use it to create handmade journals, notebooks, scrapbooks, and albums. 

Learn more

For instructions on long-stitch binding, check out Bookbinding Fundamentals: Long-Stitch Leather Journal by Erica Munoz.

Figure 7. Long-stitch binding combined with chain stitches. Photo E. Lundahl. 
  • Pamphlet stitch

The simplest structure of binding a single signature of several folios (a sheet of paper folded in half) is a basic pamphlet stitch, also known as butterfly stitch. This stitch is used for smaller books with a lower page count. Folios are nested one within the other, and sewing stations (punched holes on the text block and cover) guide the stitching. Pamphlet-stitched binding can use three, five, or seven sewing stations. These stations can also be attached by staples through the fold. Pamphlets are a common structure for binding brochures, magazines, music, calendars, catalogs, and ephemera. Because of their economical materials and ease of assembly, pamphlets are a dominant form of disseminating information.  

The term “pamphlet” is derived from the protagonist of the twelfth-century Latin love poem Pamphilus seu de Amore.The poem was so widely read that it was copied and circulated on its own as a thin book. Thus, the word “pamphlet” came to be associated with a small booklet. 

Learn more

For instructions on how to bind a pamphlet, check out 3-hole Pamphlet Stitch for Journals by Jane’s Journals.

Figure 8. Five-hole pamphlet stitch diagram. Photo by Jess Beyer on Pinterest.
Figure 9. Pamphlet-stitched notebooks. Photo from Vintage Page Designs. 
  • Secret Belgian stitch

The Secret Belgian bookbinding, also called crisscross binding, is an interesting bookbinding technique that involves binding the book covers separately from the signatures in a weave-like pattern. The spine is also separate from the covers, making the book flexible to open flat and the covers to fold back. This is a great advantage when writing or drawing. Each signature is sewn on the spine and joined with the next signature with kettle stitch at each end.

The Belgian bookbinding technique was devised by the Belgian bookbinder Anne Goy, and it resembled the Japanese-style binding, but with the book lying flat when open. One of Goy’s students learned this technique and taught it to Hedi Kyle, a German-American book artist and educator, who brought it to the US and taught it to many. 

Learn more

For written instructions on how to work the secret Belgian stitch, check out the Secret Belgian Binding tutorial by Kristi. 

Figure 10. Notebooks bound in Secret Belgian stitches. Photo from Handmade Books and Journals.
  • Caterpillar stitch 

The Caterpillar stitch is a two-needle binding or ornate stitch that looks like a centipede. It can be used either as a binding stitch on an exposed spine or purely as decoration on the book covers, or both. If used as a binding stitch, it is recommended to combine it with Coptic or French stitches to secure the book signatures because the caterpillar stitch by itself is unstable. When using this bookbinding technique, the leg stitches are done first and the core wrapping later. The backside of the caterpillar stitch results in a ladder effect, which can be either visible or hidden under the endpapers.

Learn more

For instructions on how to bind a book using the caterpillar stitch, check out this Caterpillar Bookbinding Stitch illustrated tutorial by Kristi.

Figure 11. Caterpillar binding stitch. Photo from Handmade Books and Journals.
  • Singer-sewn binding

Singer-sewn or thread-stitched binding is a binding technique that uses thread and an industrial sewing machine to stitch the book cover and pages together. Matching or contrasting color threads can create an attractive and decorative finish. There are two types of Singer-sewn binding: 1) the center: Singer-sewing stitches on collated pages at the center of the signatures; and 2) the side: Singer-sewing stitches on individual sheets of paper along the spine. The stitching threads can be left either hanging at each bookend or cut clean. Both types offer the advantage of the book opening flat, and the pages are secure with forty or more stitches.

Singer-sewn binding is economical, functional, and simple. It is used to bind thin books with soft covers such as journals, notebooks, reports, and brochures.

Learn more

For a demonstration of the process of this bookbinding technique, watch the video Singer Sewn Book Binding by Deanprint Ltd. 

Figure 12. Side-sewn binding. Photo from Anstey Bookbinding.
Figure 13. Center-sewn binding. Photo from Specialt!es.

Conclusion

Bookbinding has evolved in many ways since the time of the Coptic Christians in Egypt. After the codex was invented, ancient peoples began to develop methods to bind their manuscripts. They did that by tying and sewing loose pages together. Over time, these binding methods were adapted or changed due to technological advancement. Today, high-speed machinery is used for mass book production. However, several handsewn binding methods are still favored today by some book manufacturers, hobbyists, crafters, conservationists, and book artists.

In this guide, I have highlighted some common sewn binding techniques for book enthusiasts, hoping it inspires them to appreciate and learn how handsewn books are held together. 

Illustrated tutorials and links on bookbinding techniques

References